A sentimental journey

 Years ago my sister-in-law gave me a laundry marking kit. It dates from before 1930, and was from her Dutch family stuff. It’s an attractive object, and, because it’s a gift from her, I’ve kept it through many moves.

In the box, there’s a bunch of thin metal sheet stencils, mostly copper. One sheet has part of an alphabet, another has the numbers 0 to 9, there’s repeating motif that looks like it’s for borders, three large fancy letters, a picture of a child with a hoop and stick, and, to my delight, a laurel border motif. The laurel stencil has never been used, and, oddly, is a grey metal. I’m guessing that it wasn’t part of the original kit.

To mark the fabric, there’s a brush, and a tiny china dish with a tablet of blue pigment. I’m guessing it’s the same chemical as laundry bluing – ferric ferrocyanide aka “Prussian blue”.

And the instructions. In three languages, which is oddly nostalgic. We’re so used to multi-lingual instructions; somehow, despite the olde timey font, it makes the kit seem more present.

As for what was originally in the kit, again, I’m guessing. Almost certainly, it had all the letters of the alphabet, though I suspect the fancy individual letters may have been bought separately. I have no idea how many border or image stencils it included. Maybe some came with it, and maybe, like the fancy letters, they might have been bought separately.

The kit has obviously been used; the brush is stained blue, some of the stencils have blue brush marks, and the surface of the pigment tablet has been wetted and rubbed – presumably with the brush.

There are also several things that don’t appear to belong – another tablet of pigment that’s too big for the dish, a pair of tweezers, a tiny ivory-handled crochet hook, and an ivory object that looks like it’s for cleaning under fingernails. I suspect that, at some point, someone tucked them into the box just because they fit.

But I’ve never actually explored using it until a convo with The Sempster nudged me into seeing how it works – or if it still works.

It does. I fished out a scrap of handkerchief linen, wetted the pigment, rubbed the brush over it, and marked the linen using one of the fancy letter stencils. I wet the pigment too much, so it came out wet & blurry, but, with a good light and a bit of squinting, one of the two marks was clear enough to embroider over. So I dug out a skein of cotton embroidery floss and did a bit of quick&dirty embroidery.

Then I washed out the blue. The marking material doesn’t wash out with just water, hot or cold. Since I don’t know how old it actually is, and might predate detergents, I used laundry soap. Though it took some persistence, and much hot water, it did eventually wash out

This was a sentimental practice run with a small, mundane object. Somewhere in the process, I realized that all of the napkins and handkerchiefs that I have that date back to the 1930s or earlier have embroidered monograms. I had assumed that that was just how it was done – a status marker, a way of saying “MINE!”.

That’s probably a large part of the reason, but, essentially, they’re marked so that the laundry gets the right piece back to the right person…

By | May 8th, 2024|embroidery, equipment, laundry, tools|Comments Off on A sentimental journey

Italian Renaissance Costume Challenge – April report

A change of plans

When I entered IRCC 9 I had no idea that I would be spending most of the month of May in Italy! Specifically, on my sister’s farm in Piedmonte, near Cisterna d’Asti. I’m delighted & looking forward eagerly to the trip – and scrambling to finish non-IRCC work scheduled for May before I leave.

This has also reshuffled my sewing plans; initially I had planned to make the gown, based on the Pisa half-gown, first, then the camicia based on the one worn by Laura Battiferri in the Bronzino portrait (the images above), followed by the underskirt, while working on the lace and jewellery when not sewing.

So, as I’m going to be in Italy instead of my studio, I’m focusing instead on what I can take along in a carry-on suitcase. This includes the materials/components for

  • the camicia
  • the lace (or lace-edged) cap
  • the pearl necklace
  • the belt

All of these involve a lot of handwork and minimal volumes of materials – even the camicia which, though it’s lots of yardage, is fine cotton & folds up small

So far,

Camicia smock pleating & collar hem

  • I made progress with the preliminary steps for cutting & fitting the bodice of the gown before the trip to Italy came up
  • completed the assembly of the camicia components, hemming & pleating its collar & cuffs preparatory to smocking
    Pearls, chain and tools for jewellery & belt for IRCC 9 submission
  • assembled the materials & tools for the other items I’m planning to take along

 

 

 

 

April working notes

1 April 2019

Muslin for gown bodice:

The bara system pattern pieces

  • drafted a basic doublet pattern using the Modern Maker[1] bara technique

 

 

 

 

 

 

2 April 2019

Trying on the first cut of the bodice made with the Modern Maker bara system

  • made a muslin from the Modern Maker pattern draft & found some issues with the fit:
    • too tight – needs at least 2cm added to the girth – actual amount tbd, depending on the thickness of the fabrics
    • the armhole is too high
    • the upper chest has a peculiar outward curve as if designed for a pigeon chest. Not sure where that came from – it’s over the sternum, too high to be intended to accommodate the fashionable 16th century flatten-the-girls-upward look. I’ll need to take out 2 or 3cm.

3 April 2019

  • tried the muslin on again & made the adjustments
  • drafted a new version of the pattern with the adjustments, a square neckline and side back lacing opening. (Side lacing makes dressing without help possible!)
  • cut new muslin

5 April 2019

  • sewed & fitted new muslin

10 – 18 April 2019

Canvas underling for bodice prior to final fitting

    • tweaked the bodice fit
    • lowered the armhole
    • raised the front neck 2cm; the extant garment is described as having a “scollo molto alto” (a very high neckline). This may account for why there is a centre front seam. Without the shaping this seam makes possible the front would stand out from the upper chest unless I took a deep dart or two at the top & one in each armscye, which solution does not appear to be supported by evidence from surviving garments or pattern books.
    • made the straps a separate piece as on the extant garment
  • drafted new pattern from adjusted muslin
  • cut the canvas for bodice interlining ready for final fitting

 

 

 

 

19-24 April 2019

Smocked camicia:

  • made a second smocking test swatch
  • calculated width of fabric needed to gather to a neck circumference of 33cm (~ 13 inches). It needs to be 304 cm (~ 120 inches) wide
  • cut out camicia pieces (front, back, 2 sleeves, 2 square gussets) by pulled-thread method to ensure all pieces are on the straight of grain. Cut a 30cm (~ 12 inches) neckline opening at the centre front.
  • narrow-hemmed 30cm of the top edges of the front, back & sleeves sewed them together. I’ve left the bulk of the sewing until the collar embroidery/smocking is complete because it’s hard to tell beforehand how deep/shallow the armholes will need to be.
  • did a fine rolled hem around the top edge, then narrow-hemmed the neckline opening and the edges of where the cuffs will be

25 – 28 April 2019

  • discovered that, in spite of being thin & fine, the full width of the camicia is too big to fit in my smocking pleater. Unpicked the seams far enough down to handle each panel separately.
  • pleated the collar & cuffs of the camicia
  • re-stitched the seams & bits of the rolled hem where I’d had to open them for pleating.

30 April 2019

  • photographed & packed handwork items

[1] Mathew Gnagy, The Modern Maker Vol. 2: Pattern Manual 1580 – 1640, self-published

By | April 30th, 2019|costume, embroidery, IRCC, Italy, jewellery, smocking, tools|Comments Off on Italian Renaissance Costume Challenge – April report

The joys of masking tape

From the tools department: masking tape – a solution to those annoying thread ends, snippets, bits of fluff and other textile-working nuisances!

A strip of masking tape, stuck sticky side up (with the ends tucked under) to the nearest handy flat surface – chair arm, table, wall, whatever – catches those bits of thread, offcuts, balls of fluff, stray pins, and other odds and ends that tend to wind up on the floor, stuck to one’s clothes, in the cat, or otherwise somewhere one would rather be they weren’t.

And it can keep small things like a thimble, pins, a needle – or even a small plate – anchored and handy.

(The image is of a hard-working strip of 2” wide blue masking tape – my preferred kind – stuck to the arm of my garden glider, which dates from the 1950s and needs a new coat of paint.)

By | September 4th, 2016|tools|Comments Off on The joys of masking tape